The block with lips normally have a set-back of 1"+ per course, which results in less surface are on top to recover as valuable real estate. Most of the various systems offer both types of systems, but in Idaho, the variety and availability may be a problem.Īlso, the photo posted of a completed wall had a vertical face. Pins are not always necessary and many engineers so not use units with pins because of a possible "zipper" failure of the grid at the pins and prefer the lipped types that have a long history of testing for high walls. Because of this, the smaller, lighter (45-50#) units would not be best for your use. Dropping one on your foot can be a trip to the hospital without protection.Īccording to the photos, it seems like the wall would be more than 3' high PLUS you have account to the surcharge from a vehicle. I use the Compac block which are light weight at 85 pounds each. Once you've done that the rest of the wall goes very quickly.Īlso, if you will be doing the work I strongly suggest a good pair of safety toe work boots. Every block in the first row must be level in both directions and don't proceed until they are. When doing a wall I figure at least 1/2 to 3/4 the time and effort will be put into preparing the foundation gravel bed and getting the first row perfectly level. The only real advice I have is to follow the manufacturer's instructions and do not skimp on the base/footing. Walls can be built vertically or with a slight slant back using the same blocks. I am particularly fond of the Keystone because of the pins.
Fiberglass pins or a lip cast into the blocks is required for a retaining wall. One thing I would not do is use the smaller blocks like you find at most home centers. It is not a cheap product but it does work. I have used the Keystone brand blocks for over ten years and even have a fair number of retaining walls at my house made of them.